The scenic two-hour rail journey that’s pure magic

There’s a Harry Potter vibe to Dunedin Railway Station. With its dramatic arches and castle-like towers, you only need to squint a little to imagine it’s the entrance to an enchanted boarding school. Adding to the intrigue, Dunedin channels the Scottish Highlands through its moody hills, Gaelic heritage and public devotion to cable-knit sweaters.

But I’m on the southern tip of New Zealand’s South Island for a different kind of magic – not the Hogwarts Express but the Coastal Express, a return 35-kilometre journey between Dunedin and Waitati, following a scenic stretch of the historic Main South Line. With a history dating back to the 1860s, this route once formed part of the long-running passenger service between Christchurch and Invercargill, which was discontinued in 2002.

Taking just under two hours, the Coastal Express is a snack-sized sampler, ideal for loco-loving kids, cruise ship passengers, or – as in my case – anyone with a few spare hours before a flight.

Operated by Dunedin Railways, it’s one of four tourist journeys leaving from what’s often called the most photographed building in New Zealand. So photogenic that we almost miss the boarding call – but with a joyful hoot-hoot we are on our way, the city falling away as we trundle along the edge of the harbour.

From Ravensbourne port we cross the Blanket Bay causeway, seeming to hover above the water a short distance from the Te Aka Otakou shared pathway, which we had cycled the previous day. It’s a treat to enjoy the same views without breaking a sweat.

Seats are arranged in groups of four, with a table in the middle. Ours is on the non-water side, facing the direction of travel, but an announcement by our conductor Dave suggests passengers swap sides for the return journey.

The train is a reminder of a slower time, the jaunty, blue and yellow exterior of its 1960s locomotive a nod to the past, but the name Peter emblazoned on the side is pure Dunedin quirkiness.

Inside, the train is modest but welcoming – renovated 1930s carriages now feature comfortable seats while still maintaining a hint of heritage charm. “Every carriage has a story,” Dave says. “One even served as a rail ambulance in World War II, ferrying patients from ship to hospital.”

There’s a small open-air viewing space and a cafe, which is only open for service on the longer journeys, such as the Taieri Gorge (five hours), the Victorian (8½ hours) and the Seasider (3½). I have a pang of travellers’ regret when I learn that the Seasider journey, which follows this very route, includes a whistlestop at Arc Brewing Co.

I may have missed the brews, but the views more than compensate. Passing St Leonards, we see yachts leaning into the breeze, stitching jagged lines across the bay, while Harbour Cone stands watch like a green sentry on the distant peninsula.

“The Otago Peninsula is the remains of the crater wall of a long-extinct volcano,” says Dave, his words igniting a low buzz of conversation around the carriage. Train travel does that – the rhythm of the tracks, the grandeur outside – inviting easy connection between passengers.

From Sawyers Bay we climb away from Port Chalmers, the historic departure point for Robert Falcon Scott’s ill-fated Terra Nova Antarctic expedition. Next, we barrel through the historic 1323-metre Mihiwaka tunnel, one of the longest tunnels in New Zealand, its 1:50 slope bringing us high above Blueskin Bay. With the tide drawn back, the mudflats are alive with wading birds and black swans.

At Waitati our driver changes ends for the return to Dunedin, the station a timeless silhouette against the sky. The platform puts on a show of its own; some people break into a round of applause, others pose for photos, a small boy is lifted up to the driver’s carriage. Who needs wizardry when you have this kind of magic?

The details

Fly
Air New Zealand offers flights between Sydney and Melbourne to Dunedin, with one stopover (either Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch). See airnewzealand.co.nz

Train
Dunedin Railways offers a variety of scenic tours on selected dates throughout the year. See dunedinrailways.co.nz

Stay
A two-bedroom apartment at the Bell Hill Apartments from $NZ456 ($419) a night. See bellhillaprtments.co.nz

More
dunedinnz.com

The writer was a guest of Enterprise Dunedin.