The hotel high tea shared by the Queen, Churchill and a Beatle

I arrive at The Mount Nelson Hotel, a Belmond Hotel in Cape Town, with a sore throat and the fear that it’s about to develop into something worse.

Luckily, I have a reservation for high tea on the terrace of the legendary pink-tinged grand hotel, which opened in 1899 and over a century or more has seen many luminaries sipping its tea, from Winston Churchill and Queen Elizabeth to Oprah Winfrey and John Lennon.

Formal high teas began in the lounge in 1989 and the hotel has perfected the art. The sumptuous tiers of food include devilled eggs, mushroom pie, finger sandwiches filled with Franschhoek salmon, free-range chicken or cucumber and cream cheese, homemade scones and a selection of exquisite cakes from pastry chef Vicky Gurovich.

But what sets apart The Nellie, as the hotel is affectionately known, is Craig Cupido, who is South Africa’s first expertly trained tea sommelier and presides over the hotel’s collection of 75 teas from around the world, including 14 new varieties he recently introduced to the menu.

Exotic blends include a butterfly pea flower infusion and South American mesquite tea. Craig will create his own, depending on guests’ specific tastes. “We also have a garden here which enables us to make custom blends for our guests, which is unique in itself and unlike any other tea available,” he says.

Hearing my scratchy throat, he offers to make me a medicinal blend. It’s a mix of peppermint, fresh ginger and buchu, an indigenous plant that has properties that ease inflammation, the common cold and stomach ailments.

It’s delicious and Craig sends a pot to my room afterwards with a note. I’m happy to report that my sore throat doesn’t develop into anything more serious, and I’m convinced it’s because of this potion.

I ask Craig the secret to making a great cup of tea. “It all depends on the person you are serving it to,” he says. “I think it is all about preference and what you perceive as enjoyable. After all, tea can be quite personal.

“On average a good tea needs the correct time, temperature, and good quality water. Depending on the tea you are making, good quality tea leaves are also important.” They should never be placed in a tea bag, he warns.

Craig worked for a local tea merchant before moving to The Nellie more than 10 years ago. He has travelled the world in search of traditions and intriguing brews. “In the East, tea is often served ‘gongfu’ style, which is made through constant practice and with meticulous skill.” Watching him select, steep and pour my tea, meticulous and poetic are the words I’d use.

What is the tea master’s favourite tea? Craig says he enjoys tea across the spectrum and appreciates them for their distinct qualities. “But if I had to choose just one, I’m most drawn to Pu-erh, a type of dark tea. Steeped in tradition and often aged for decades, Pu-erh is not only rich in history but also known for its natural probiotic properties.”

Craig offers masterclasses in tea and food pairings. “I don’t really have a sweet tooth,” he admits “but cakes, not too sweet, combined with specific teas can enhance and transform flavour. Smoky teas like Lapsang Souchong with mushrooms are particularly memorable. Bancha (green tea) and cheesecake is surprisingly outstanding and unexpected. Scones with a tea that has citrus notes are amazing. The pairings are endless.”

The happy clinking of cups every afternoon at The Nellie is testament to the significance of afternoon tea as a cultural phenomenon, not just in Cape Town but across the world.

“A great cup has memory, no need for words, just a space to share with friends,” Craig says.

Five delicious Australian hotel high teas

Aria Bar & Lounge, The Langham, Melbourne. See langhamhotels.com

Deco Lounge, The Tasman, Hobart. See decoloungehobart.com

Hearth, The Ritz-Carlton, Perth. See hearthrestaurant.com.au

Aperture, The Capella, Sydney. See capellahotels.com

Chapter & Verse, JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort and Spa. See chapterandversebar.com/high-tea

THE DETAILS

Mount Nelson Hotel high tea costs R595 ($52) an adult and R350 ($30) a child under 12.
Monday to Sunday, 11am-3pm with seating slots by the hour. See belmond.com/hotels

The writer was a guest of the Mount Nelson Hotel.