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Early birds catch the ice.

Holiday guide

The ends of the Earth

The Arctic and Antarctic are otherworldly places of furious extremes, where unfamiliar rhythms and patterns will keep you in a perpetual state of wonder. Both offer glimpses of life lived on the edge, where there is little room for second chances. Both will strip you bare, turning you into a wiser and more humble version of yourself. - Kerry van der Jagt

26 stories
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The far extremes of our planet aren’t just the ultimate cruise destination, but among the ultimate journeys of any kind.
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North or south? Choosing the polar frontier for you

The remoteness, elemental grandeur and extraordinary wildlife of the Arctic and Antarctic will seize your soul.

  • Brian Johnston
Ice landings are among the rarest things you can experience in Antarctica.

Fleeting and surreal, this might be Antarctica’s rarest experience

You’ve heard of a dry landing and a wet landing. But what about an ice landing?

  • Jenny Hewett
Polar snorkelling is one of the most unique ways to experience Antarctica.

I broke one of the first rules of visiting the Antarctic

Polar snorkelling is a unique way to experience the White Continent. But something doesn’t feel right this morning.

  • Jenny Hewett
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For adventure lovers … the Douglas Mawson.
  • ★★★★½

New Australian ship is a perfect match for our wildest waters

The first cruise of Aurora Expeditions’ Douglas Mawson was meant to circumnavigate Tasmania, but wild weather led the expeditioners on a different, but just as eventful, route.

  • Julie Miller
Kristiansand in southern Norway.

The gloriously eccentric museum revealing Norway’s strange past

Where in the world did women use potatoes to make themselves look sexy to potential suitors?

  • Sue Williams
The Douglas Mawson en route to Hobart.

Australian cruise company launches new ‘X-bow’ ship

The Douglas Mawson will sail to Antarctica as well as the Mediterranean and the British Isles.

  • Julietta Jameson
Greenland’s homes are simple, warm, brightly painted on the outside and cosy inside.
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I rarely come back from a trip changed – until I went here

A lot of the things I was worrying about suddenly seemed trivial in the face of what Greenlanders contentedly endured.

  • Lee Tulloch
Hurtigruten has plied the Norwegian west coast for 130 years, originally as a postal service and later as a vital supply line.

A 130-year-old, essential ferry route doubles as a spectacular cruise

Over breakfast, a debate begins: is this a cruise or a ferry? Delicious meals, viewing lounge and other luxuries on one hand, a busy schedule of stops and cargo deliveries on the other.

  • Simon Johanson
Silversea in Antarctica.

There’s only one way to get to the ultimate bucket-list destination

Unless you’re a research scientist, you’ll only ever be able to land in Antarctica off a small expedition cruise ship.

  • Brian Johnston
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Nothing quite prepares you for Antarctica.

The one destination no traveller can ever be fully prepared for

There’s an astonishing prep list before you can even set foot on the White Continent. But, in this harsh environment, even the most prepared can expect the unexpected.

  • Katrina Lobley
Ushuaia is the southernmost city in Argentina.

Turns out, the ‘end of the world’ is a great place to visit

This far-flung chilly city will warm your heart with crab feasts, colourful murals and some of the best baked goods around.

  • Katrina Lobley
Gentoo penguins at Port Lockroy, Antractica.

Antarctica’s most popular (and adorable) man-made attraction is back

Last summer, the famous Penguin Post Office was off-limits due to the threat of avian flu, so its workers got creative.

  • Katrina Lobley
The bulk of foreign visitors stay in or near the capital, Reykjavik.

See this spectacular destination before the tourist crowds arrive

This remote region will welcome more tourists than ever this year. Here’s why you should beat the rush of visitors (and Donald Trump).

  • Ben Ross
Flight over Antarctica.

The window-view surprise that took my breath away

Sightseeing flights over the coldest, windiest and driest continent give you an insight into its huge mountains – and get you back in the same day.

  • Liam Phelan
Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot can go where other ships cannot.

This cruise ship can go where other ships cannot

As Antarctica becomes crowded with ships, the Le Commandant Charcot can push through pack ice and into regions of seas typically only reached by military or scientific vessels.

  • Jamie Lafferty
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The Southern Fuegian Railway, more aptly called the End of the World Train.

The cute little train at the end of the world with a brutal history

Tourists are curious creatures, ever ready to make an entertainment out of the most terrible tales of the past.

  • Brian Johnston
European destinations don’t get much more far-flung than the Faroe Islands, between Britain and Iceland.

Europe doesn’t get more far-flung, or magical, than this breathtaking place

Created by volcanic eruptions and subsequently eroded by glaciers, winds and waves, this dreamlike archipelago sits halfway between Iceland and Britain.

  • Steve McKenna
“Off the beaten cruise track”: the Hanse Explorer in Antarctica

How the ultra-rich cruise: On board the world’s most-travelled superyacht

Last year the Hanse Explorer clocked up a staggering 65,555 kilometres, many of which were racked up during charters for the rich and famous.

  • Rachel Ingram
Svalbard might be the most beautiful place on Earth, but its environment and wildlife are under threat.

See ‘the most beautiful place on Earth’ while you still can

Everything on an Arctic trip is delivered with a degree of melancholy since all the beauty we see comes with a disclaimer: best you see it now.

  • Craig Tansley
The Ross Sea and its jigsaw of ice.

New ice age: 10 unbelievable Antarctica experiences

From polar camping to exploring in a luxury sub, there’s no time like the present to super-size your visit to the White Continent.

  • Katrina Lobley
Jumping into the freezing waters of Antarctica or the Arctic is a rite of passage many travellers can't resist.

Polar plunge: What it's like to take a dip in Antarctica's freezing waters

Blue skies and placid waters notwithstanding, it's counterintuitive to swim in the inhumanely cold waters of Antarctica.

  • Catherine Marshall
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Longyearbyen, Svalbard.

Nine must-do highlights of Longyearbyen, Norway

Huskies, breweries, fine-dining and glaciers: there’s a lot to warm to in this icy destination.

  • Craig Tansley
We’re far enough north in the summer that the sun never sets.

A place where the sun never sets (though you still might not see it)

Tourism is still a rarity when exploring this part of the Arctic.

  • Jamie Lafferty
Expeditioners on foot.

Surprises come thick and fast in this remote, fragile land

A circumnavigation of Spitsbergen delivers exceptional Arctic wildlife in one of the world’s most remote and fragile environments.

  • Andrew Conway
Langjokull

See this magnificent place before it’s gone forever

I’ve read a lot about global warming, but seeing it so starkly in action is shocking, and it makes me wonder if I should be here at all.

  • Brian Johnston
Aurora Expeditions’ MV Sylvia Earle.

Short on time? This Australian ship can do Antarctica at express speed

I’m doing what is surely the shortest journey you can have while cruising this remote corner of the world. But there’s still time to be overwhelmed.

  • Ben Groundwater

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Photo: Lonely Planet/Supplied
Handout image supplied for use in Traveller. No syndication. Use must be related to "Lonely Planet's Guide to Train Travel in Europe"
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