Grand Hotel Cocumella review, Sorrento, Italy: The Sorrento hotel living up to its 'grand' name

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It's the oldest hotel on the Sorrento peninsula and a stay at the Grand Hotel Cocumella is like stepping back in time to a world of old school hospitality and charm. Born from a 16th-century monastery and now adjoining the old chapel, over the course of its 200-year history this hotel has hosted Goethe, Mary Shelley, Hans Christian Anderson and Sigmund Freud as part of their "grand tour". And now, it's hosting me.

The Look

Grand Hotel Cocumella occupies a huge piece of land next to the overlooked township of Sant'Angello, a few minutes' drive from Sorrento. The main building holds regal arched hallways lined with statues that lead to a tiny bar and restaurant which has views of the property to the sea. Outside, a long path cuts diagonally through manicured and dense gardens, with ornate statues, a vegetable garden and fruit trees. Hidden away is a tennis court, pool and a second restaurant. The path ends at the top of the cliffs with grand views to the sea and down the peninsula, across to Ischia, Naples and Vesuvius. There's a restaurant here too, and access to a private beach via an impressive pathway carved through the side of the cliff. From the beach, a serviced pier juts out into the ocean from which guests relax on sunbeds in between dips in the ocean.

Service

I'm impressed by the concierge who, via email request, arranges a spectacular sunshine yellow Vespa before my arrival which I zoom around Amalfi and Sorrento on for the next four days. The Vespa - missing a rear-vision mirror - attracts more attention that I anticipated, even from the Positano police who issue me with a parking fine. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it has its own TIkTok account by now. Service across the board here is of the old-fashioned, five-star kind, with cute quirks such as acquiring your (very large) key every time you leave the hotel - and staff remembering your room number every time you came back to collect it.

The Room

I am excited by this room, which is large with beautiful views across the property to the sea and Vesuvius. Filled with period furniture, it has a separate bedroom and sitting room, balcony and sun-deck. The marble bathroom has a full-sized spa bath from which to enjoy the views, and there are large bottles of Diptyche toiletries I enjoyed for days to come. There's a nightly turndown service and fresh flowers - a nice touch.

Food + Drink

I'm starving after my trip from Rome and dash to make a pitstop at the poolside restaurant L'Agrumeto, shaded under vines and orange trees with an outdoor kitchen and pizza oven - the classic Amalfi set-up. The smell of tomatoes cooking is intoxicating, and I can't resist ordering a pasta dish smothered in the stuff. The excellent staff here recommended the pizza, too, so I return the next day for one of these doughey delights, served with an entire piece of burrata in the centre and local anchovies.

At the clifftop with splendid views of Naples lights twinkling under the distant Vesuvius, third restaurant Coku is Italy's first Robata restaurant. The generous portions at lunch mean I can't fit in a heavy dinner, but my "snack" of tempura fish and vegetables is a hearty serving indeed, which I wash down with a robust negroni. Breakfast is another smorgasboard of temptation, where familiar staff present me with focaccia straight out of the oven and fresh orange juice from the orchard outside my window. There are wholemeal croissants with a hint of honey; fruit flans, cakes, a variety of cheese, and so on.

Out and About

Sorrento is so close you can walk to it within 30 minutes; and the under-the-radar Sant 'Angello is also worth exploring. However, I have my own wheels and from here, can escort myself down the Sorrento coastline. The Amalfi coast, too, is easy to reach - Positano is probably far enough, anything further would make it a long day and you want to take some time out to enjoy the hotel's facilities. And having your own sunbed on a private beach is enviable in Italy.

The Verdict

Living up to its grand name, this classic luxury hotel is a destination within itself.

Our rating out of five

Five

The Essentials

Via Cocumella, 7, 80065, Sant'Agnello di Sorrento, Italy; info@cocumella.com; cocumella.com. Rooms from €500 ($719) a night.

Highlight

I can't decide whether it's witnessing the view from my balcony for the first time; a swim at the private beach or lunching under the vines on pasta with tomatoes.

Lowlight

No USB ports make charging devices tricky - plan accordingly.