The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Opinion

Africa perfected the safari. Now travellers want to go deeper

Lee Tulloch
Travel columnist

Think of Africa – think safari.

But to reduce the world’s second-largest continent of 54 countries to the notion that it’s only worth visiting for safari, underplays what this magnificent destination has to offer visitors.

In May, I travelled to Cape Town to attend We Are Africa, an annual trade marketplace with a responsible tourism focus that showcases the most extraordinary experiences the continent has to offer, from regenerative farm stays in South Africa to voodoo tours in DR Congo.

Epupa Falls on the Kunene River on the northern Namibia and southern Angola border. Getty Images

There are more than 300 exhibitors at the trade show, so it takes over the huge DHL stadium on Cape Town’s waterfront. Several tiers, which open out onto the famous oval that hosted the 2010 FIFA World Cup, are packed with booths hosted by independent hotels, farms and lodges, safari companies and destination operators.

Advertisement

Yes, there are an overwhelming number of safaris, from Feline Fields’ vintage-style camp in Botswana to Offbeat Safaris’ moveable camps in Kenya. There are the ultra-luxury lodges such as South Africa’s Royal Malewane, and the more affordable Makakatana Bay Lodge in iSimangaliso Wetland Park, where you can find two of the country’s three strawberry leopards.

Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.

Royal Malawane Safari Lodge.

Over the three days I spent at the stadium, it would have been impossible to physically meet a fraction of the representatives of these lodges and camps.

But, as I dashed from booth to booth, I was struck by the number of African countries that remain relatively unexplored. This is where the boundaries of tourism to Africa are being pushed.

I was surprised to hear that Africa represents less than 5 per cent of worldwide tourism arrivals and has the second-lowest tourism growth of all regions. Travellers are put off by the idea that Africa is a continent of war, famine and disease, or that it’s only open for safari or trekking to gorillas.

Advertisement
Flying safaris there are growing in popularity, in destinations once considered remote, like Namibia.iStock

But there is no single “Africa”. It’s uniquely diverse. Africa is the youngest of all continents, with a median age of 19 years. Spend a day or two on the ground, and you’ll be wowed by the energy and entrepreneurial spirit, especially among the young.

Tourism has suffered from the unfortunate misconception that Africa is dangerous. But in many ways adversity has been a driver of innovation.

During the week, many seemed to be talking about Chad, which edges the Sahara in the heart of Africa, and is known for its remarkable rock formations and cave art but is also considered somewhat unsafe because of the risk of terrorism.

That doesn’t seem to be deterring everyone. Travellers who have done safaris multiple times are looking for more adventure and are prepared to take risks.

Advertisement

Most wild places are still untapped. Once considered extremely remote, Namibia has been on the radar for a while now. Flying safaris there are growing in popularity to see the vast, dramatic landscapes from the air.

Along with Chad, countries such as Ghana, Benin, Gabon and the Central African Republic are suggested destinations for those looking for something beyond the familiar. Air France and KLM now fly directly into once-dangerous Kinshasa, capital of the DRC, one of the world’s fastest-growing cities.

I spoke to Signature Africa, a company that crafts tours and travel across all African countries, and they suggested the best places to visit for cultural experiences are Nigeria, Ethiopia, Angola and South Sudan, Ethiopia being the most diverse.

Botswana and Kenya still get big ticks for their classic safari experiences. Botswana’s camps are smaller and more exclusive. And expensive.

Advertisement

But there are ways around it. A representative of the Botswana tourist authority told me it was entirely possible to self-drive around the country. It’s safe and welcoming, “and everyone loves a chinwag”.

In safari, the trends are for smaller camps, longer stays, more privacy.

A lot of safari camps didn’t allow children, but that is changing. Someone cited toddlers going on a hunt in Tanzania.

There’s also an increase in solo female travellers. Africa’s extraordinary wild landscapes means there’s huge opportunity to develop wellness experiences and healing through nature. Sterrekopje 1694 Healing Farm in Franschhoek, with its organic garden, bath house and apothecary, is one of a few such farm stays flourishing in South Africa.

The downside is there’s still not a lot of infrastructure in many places. Flying to remote African countries or between capitals can be expensive and time-consuming. There’s not a great variety of culinary offerings.

Advertisement

But Africa is ditching its inferiority complex and recognising what it has to offer the world. And that’s a wonderful thing.

The writer was a guest of We Are Africa.

Lee TullochLee TullochLee is a best-selling novelist, columnist, editor and writer. Her distinguished career stretches back more than three decades, and includes 12 years based between New York and Paris. Lee specialises in sustainable and thoughtful travel.Connect via email.

Traveller Guides

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement