Tempted to squeeze your blackheads? Do this instead

We’ve all suffered from blackheads, but what are they exactly? The technical term is “open comedones” and they look like tiny dark spots on the surface of the skin. They pop up when sebum gets trapped by dead skin cells at the opening of a pore. When the sebum is exposed to air, it oxidises and turns black.

One of the main causes of blackheads is excessive oil production, which is influenced by both genetic and hormonal factors – people with oily skin are more prone to blackheads. Occlusive slugging products that create a protective barrier for the skin mantle and lock in active ingredients can also cause clogged pores.

I know how deeply satisfying it can be to squeeze blackheads, but you really shouldn’t as it might end up pushing the blackhead deeper and can lead to larger pores. Even worse is the possibility of infection caused by the bacteria on your fingers.

So, how do you deal with them? Professional extraction is the safest option and we love the facial purists at Jocelyn Petroni in Sydney, who really know their stuff when it comes to mining blackheads. But there are other ways to tackle this problem using chemical keratolytics including salicylic acid, retinol and glycolic acid, as these exfoliators break down the clusters of skin cells responsible for blackheads. There are numerous treatments, both over-the-counter and by prescription.

For mild blackheads go for salicylic acid. This will help remove excess oil and exfoliate dead cells. One of our favourites is Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant ($97), used three times a week for oily skin and once a week for sensitive skin. On the days you’re not using it, apply a gentle salicylic product such as Murad Blemish Control Clarifying Cleanser ($58). This will help keep the pores clear.

For persistent trouble spots try Peace Out Acne Healing Dots ($55). Especially stubborn blackheads may respond to retinol. According to dermatologist Dr Shari Marchbein, “Retinoids can help treat blackheads … by reducing the stickiness of the cells that clog pores, as well as speeding up the rate at which the skin turns over and regenerates.” Try SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5% Refining Night Cream ($139).

Finally, don’t forget to moisturise as blackhead treatments can strip oil from skin and dry it out (if your skin is feeling particularly dry, try applying any active retinol product over your moisturiser). We recommend Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Nourishing Cream ($35).

ASK STEPH

How should I change my skincare routine for winter?
Look for a moisturising cream that targets multiple issues, including fine lines, pigmentation, sun damage and post-summer dullness. Try Bespoke Dream Cream ($179), with 12 active ingredients including astaxanthin, lycopene, bakuchiol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Get it on!

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